June 28

Wow it is hot out here! We are half way to Papeete, Tahiti. No wind. Motoring. Yuck. But we will be there by tomorrow afternoon and we can buy more fuel.

Yesterday we left Tahanea. "Kaien", a Canadian boat we met in Mexico, showed up the day before we left and it was unfortunate we did not get to hang out with them more. We will miss "Pez Vela" tons. We had a goodbye dinner and Chris presented us with a lovely watercolor of our boat!! Yikes I have not endeavored a picture as it always looks terribly complicated with all the rigging and rigorous draftsmanship is - well - rigorous. I am very touched and hope to frame it in Papeete. Chris can always work in illustration if she wants. We will miss the dinners with them. They were over many nights usually on our insistence as bringing Jonah to another boat is always fraught with complications (toys, bedtime, etc). Jordan loves to cook and would say "so long as Markus finds the fish, I will cook them!" Post-ciguatera - well we had a lot of beef and pork in the freezer and none of us wanted to try even ocean going fish as the experts say it might trigger a relapse.

In addition to learning much about fishing from the master, Markus, we learnt an equal amount about fish from Chris. She inspired me with her passion and curiosity during a dive - she is always peering in holes, looking at little stuff and big stuff and remembers details so she can find out what she was looking at later. I wish they would just continue on and we could meet them in various other places but careers call them back. They will circuit back to the US via the Society Islands, the Cooks and the Line Islands which will bring them back to Hawaii by Christmas, then back to San Diego in the New Year. Chris and Markus hope to start a family despite witnessing Jonah's many whining and crying fits. Jonah developed an immediate rapport with Markus which involved much roughhousing and much teasing by Markus ("Markus please don't torment him" was my plea) and grew equally fond of Chris and always asked about her... "will Chris come? Is Chris coming to dinner?" etc. Chris was his preferred story reader - his constant concern was that Markus couldn't handle the reading - this derived from some silly teasing of Jordan's one night which Jonah took seriously. Chris totally enchanted Jonah in Tahanea by flipping rocks at low tide to watch the eels and crabs scurry from underneath.

We left with sad hearts at the parting but excited to see Papeete and the Society Islands. Jonah is getting very excited about seeing Grandpa Jonny and Grandma Barbara when they come in mid-July. He asked if they had a bathtub at their hotel and if he could take a bath. It's the one thing he seems to miss a lot. Strange boy.

A couple of miles out of Tahanea, we sucked some air into our fuel system. This was probably due to coming out of the pass on the ebb which produces standing waves and we were slamming up and down a bit. This engine will simply not bleed fully when hot so we have to wait around five hours for it to cool. The wind was coming from the West when this happened and we had to tack north. I had taken a Dramamine for precaution and it caused my ciguatera symptoms to flair up in a serious way. I could barely walk, my legs kept buckling. We finally got the engine going and Jordan made meat loaf. He took the first shift and put me to bed. He let me sleep a long time and I took the 2:30 till dawn shift. It seems to work well for us to be fairly flexible on shifts. We sleep a lot during the day and Jonah is goofing off playing computer games and watching videos. Unless it's a really long passage I don't do school, although we might do some activities if he gets really bored later in the day.