June 26

We are feeling much better! Our bout with ciguatera has been challenging and very strange. The effects of the sickness are rather odd and strange - the leg cramps and tingling of tongue are weirdest - even tap water tastes carbonated.

On Sunday, I burned garbage on shore. I brought Jonah and kept him occupied by painting the shells of hermit crabs different colors with some acrylic paints. He enjoyed this a great deal and there are now red, blue, white and brown hermit crabs walking around the island. There are thousands of hermit crabs and they regularly upgrade shells so it's not cruel or anything. I was wiped in the afternoon and napped the rest of the day.

Jonah has been ok. The first couple of nights he woke up crying and has complained of leg pain but otherwise has been his usual ball of energy. Since yesterday morning he hasn't muttered a word about leg pain and sleeps like a log. I am so grateful that he only ate a little that night - I would have been devastated if he got as sick as Jordan. Jordan is recovering nicely. We finally figured out that being active or resting has little effect on the symptoms so you might as well do stuff.

Chris (from Pez Vela) and I decided to go dive the other pass on Monday. Markus didn't feel up to diving but hoped to free dive while towing the dingy. The dive was the "sharkiest" dive I have ever done. The pass was flooding so we were moving fairly quickly underwater. The gray sharks were very active and curious. Chris carried a broom handle with a screw at the end and I carried a metal stick - like a night stick - basically something besides our hands to push a curious shark away. Right after we went down - a group of 7 dolphins swam over our heads looking down at us in a curious manner but then headed out. It took my breath away they are so fast and beautiful. The reef was kind of sandy and dead where we were so the only thrill was flying in the current. Chris caught sight of a huge school of fish - so thick you could not see through it. Must have been 2 thousand fish. Grey sharks and tunas were feeding on the fish - swooping thrum and scattering them then they would clump up again. Well the gray sharks would approach us fairly aggressively and I just stood up on the stand and waved my hands and the shark left. Chris was fascinated with this behavior but I decided I didn't want to hang out with sharks that were feeding and urged her to go. She was a good sport and we surfaced way in the lagoon. Some folks from another boat who were free diving called Markus over - he apparently could not follow us as the water was so choppy.

We decided to dive the next day and did the main pass. It was great despite the huge silver tip shark. We had fun and saw lots of interesting fish. Today Jordan and I dove alone with Chris driving the dingy. It was Jordan's first dive since being sick and he was fine. The dive was not that great except for the fact that Jordan found 3 Lion fish in a hole - very cool.

We are parting ways with Pez Vela tomorrow. They go north and we go to Tahiti. They have become good friends and excellent dive buddies. We will miss them a lot.